Connecting Nature�s Dots

Jao Flats, Botswana

Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times

Thomas L. Friedman

Who knew that deep in Botswana�s Okavango Delta, where there are no paved roads, phones or TVs, you could find the morning paper waiting for you every day outside your tent, with the latest news, weather and sports? Who knew?

True, this is no ordinary journal. The newspaper here on the Jao Flats of the northwest Okavango flood plain is published on the roads � literally. The wetlands are bisected by hippo trails and narrow roads made from pure white Kalahari Desert sand. And every morning, when you set out to investigate the wilderness, it is not uncommon for a guide to lean out of his jeep, study the animal and insect tracks, and pronounce that he�s �reading the morning news.�

We were lucky to be accompanied by Map Ives � the 54-year-old director of sustainability for Wilderness Safaris, which supports ecotourism in Botswana � and it was fascinating to watch him read Mother Nature�s hieroglyphics.